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There are multiple listings here: 

  • listings of patterns available as downloads
  • many free patterns
  • info for previously published patterns, not in any of my books.

On the ADAPTS page are adaptations to patterns--mostly mine but not always.

I don't always manage to load my RAVELRY patterns on here as quickly as I get them up, so please come visit me there as sallyknits to see if something new has appeared!

L'Enveloppe

This may be my all-time-favourite pattern. Interesting but easy, supremely wearable. It offers the warmth of a shawl without the awkwardmness of keeping it in place. And it's a garment (meaning that it is sized to fit) without all the usual fit issues.

This patten is available in 5 sizes, 4 gauges, and 2 stitch patterns.
I now own 4, am working on a 5th, and am making them for Christmas gifts.

You can find this pattern here:
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lenveloppe







Little Black Vest

Everyone needs a Little Black Vest.
And so, this one has all my favourite attributes of a wearable design:
  • something you can imagine wearing every day
  • simple but with a kick!
Again, it's on RAVELRY.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/little-black-vest






Step Dance Shawl

This is my favourite shawl pattern.
I've done it many ways: plain yarn, variegated yarn, two yarns, leftovers and over-dyed. But my favourite version is with Classic Elite Liberty Wool Light. This yarn is like art when done in this project.

The brown and gray version is the Liberty Light. The red version is over-dyed leftovers.
The pattern is available on RAVELRY:  http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/step-dance-shawl.






Caddy's Request

This is a garment based upon something my daughter bought at a thrift store. What a wonderful design!
It, too, is available on Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/caddys-request.




Rescued Raglan

This is a garment I've had for a long time and finally made available as a pattern. It's kind of a go-to piece, because it's so easy to wear. And it was easy to knit too! But it's process was somewhat complex.

i originally knit it as a get-over-not-liking-raglans piece. But when it was done, i didn't like it. (DUH!) Part of the problem was the inverted V of the raglan (emphasizing a full bust). But most of the problem was that it was just TOOOOOOO big! What was I thinking?!@?!

But then a fortuitous thing happened. Instead of immediately ripping, I pulled the fronts together (fortunately, not the backs) to see how much smaller it should be . . . and VOILA! . . . It looked marvellous with that front pleat. Once decorated with buttons, the front pleat was a) cute and b) made the sweater smaller and c) created a right-side-up V that countered the inverted V of the raglan thereby framing the face and de-emphasizing the bust.



What an absolutely wonderful discovery! Please knit this pattern and enjoy this sweater! The pattern is available at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rescued-raglan.

Lace-meets-leaf Scarf

This scarf was developed to satisfy two criteria:
  • something in lace
  • with the same shape as my Shape-it Scarf from THE KNIT STITCH.
I was so happy with the result that I made 4 before I knew it!
The pattern is available at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lace-meets-leaf-scarf





Best-of-Both Tunic Top

This garment is my first downloadable pattern, available at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/best-of-both-tunic-top.
It's my first exploration of fabric + knitting, and I can't wait to do more!
What you might not easily see is that it's easier than you'd think. (And maybe it's cheaper, since fabric can be bought much cheaper than yarn.)
I love it and hope you'll join me in this exploration!




Seductive Yarn Tunic

This tunic is available, by this name, at http://www.patternfish.com/patterns/10217.
It was the wonderful result of using three variegated yarns, and you can read more about it there.



Honey's Christmas Stocking

   


       In my family, a grandmother's name is Honey. And in my family, it's
       Honey's job to knit the Christmas stockings. So here are mine, knit
       for my three-year-old granddaughters.

       Here are some of the pattern's features:
       --their names are included (and an alphabet comes with the pattern so you        can include yours;
       --it's knit in Cascade 220 (a worsted weight yarn) and felted (to produce a
       sturdy fabric that will last and that will blur any uneven-ness in your
       fairisle work).

       There's more. And you can read about it where the pattern is avaialble at  
       http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honeys-christmas-stocking.
 


Loopy Star
Designed by Caddy

Caddy didn’t find her way to designing an ornament for Warm Knits, Cool Gifts, but soon after the book was sent off she designed this for a charity auction. I, of course, bid and bought, and so can now offer this to you as another freebie.


Skill Level

Beginner

Size

All measurements are approximate.
Height and width 5” (12.5cm)

Materials

Under 100 yd yarn, any color, CYCA weight 5/bulky
One pair size 10 (6mm) double-pointed needles
40” (100cm) 14-gauge wire
1 jingle bell
Tapestry needle

Gauge

Gauge does not matter.

Note

All yarn and wire lengths are only suggestions. You are making enough I-cord to cover the length of wire you choose. When you think you are done, you are done! You’ll then bend the wire to the loopy shape. (It doesn’t have to be this big!)

I-CORD

Cast on 4 stitches.
*Knit 4.
Without turning work, slip all stitches to other end of needle.
Repeat from * until cord is long enough to cover length of wire.
Bind off.
Leave 6” tail.

Finishing

Straighten wire somewhat—until it’s easy to slip the cord over it.
Slip wire through cord.
Bend wire back into loopy shape, as desired.
Trim wire as needed.
With tail, sew both ends of cord together, attach jingle bell, then wrap join to cover.
Wrap a length of yarn around the ornament, and knot (to form hanger).

 

Buttoned heart
Designed by Sally

This piece was inspired by a favourite e e cummings poem; i carry your heart, i carry it in my heart. It’s a universal sentiment that need not be expressed only at Christmas, so please consider using this at any time of year and for any occasion.


Skill Level

Beginner

Size

All measurements are approximate.
Height 2½” (6cm)
Width 2½” (6cm)

Materials

10 yd 100% wool, in red, CYCA weight 4/medium
One pair size 6 (4mm) needles
2 Heart buttons
Tapestry needle

Gauge

Gauge does not matter.

Note

  1. It’s okay to only make one. You’ll still put a button on each side: you just won’t seam 2 together and stuff it. It’ll be flat but fine.
  2. It is not necessary to felt the hearts: you only need do this if you don’t like the look of the piece and want to plump it up!
  3. Kf&b = knit into the front and back of the next stitch before removing it from left needle: kf&b&f = knit into the front and back and then front of the next stitch before removing it from left needle.

HEART(S) (make 1 or 2)

E-wrap cast on 1 stitch.
Knit 2 rows.
Next row Kf&b&f in the same stitch—3 stitches.
Knit 1 row.
Increase row Kf&b in the first stitch, knit to last stitch, kf&b—5 stitches.
Knit 1 row.
Repeat increase row—7 stitches.
Knit 3 rows.
Repeat increase row—9 stitches.
Knit 3 rows.
Repeat increase row—11 stitches.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row K5, bind off center stitch, knit to end.
Next row Knit 5. Turn.
Decrease row Knit 3, k2tog—4 stitches.
Next row Bind off.
Without turning work, re-join yarn and knit 5.
Decrease row Skp (or ssk), knit 3—4 stitches.
Next row Bind off.
If you make only one heart, leave a 12” (30cm) tail at the end of the bind-off. (This will form the hanger.)
If you make a second heart, leave a 24” (61cm) tail at the end of the bind-off. (You will seam with this and then make a hanger.)

FINISHING

Sew in all tails except the long one.
For the doubled heart only
Cut pieces of yarn to stuff the heart. Holding the hearts together, put the cut pieces between, and then—with the long tail—sew the two hearts together around the edges. Do not cut this tail when done.
For both versions
With what tail remains, make a loop to function as a hanger.
The loop should hang to one side of center.
Optional
Full the piece by washing in hot water with cold rinse. Let dry.
Both versions, cont’d
After washing (if desired), sew the heart buttons onto each side, opposite the hanger.

 


Baby version of center-panelled vest
Designed by Sally

I love this vest (from our new book) so much that I wanted versions for my granddaughters. Both moms love the extra layer this piece offers! And it makes baby look so very well-dressed.

It’s important to make the vest longer than you think it needs to be (especially if you don’t have the child to measure against). Babies need length to get over their bellies, and they grow taller much faster than they grow wider.


Sizes

6-12mos (18-24mos)
finished chest measurement 22 (24)”
finished hem measurement 24 (26)”
finished length (from shoulder to hem, at side seam) 13 (15”)

Materials

for both sizes
2 (2) skeins of CASCADE 220 (220yds)
1/2 ball sock yarn (for center panel)
4mm needle for vest
3.mm needle for center panel

Gauge

20 stitches X 28 rows = 4" in stockinette, over larger needles and heavier yarn
30 stitches X 40 rows = 4" in stockinette, over smaller needles and sock yarn

Note

For the smaller size, work the first set of numbers: for the larger size, work the second set of numbers. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

LEFT FRONT
SHORT-ROW, SHAPED HEM

With larger needles and heavier yarn, long-tail cast on 24 (28) stitches.
Next WS row Purl.
Next RS short row K6, turn.
Next WS row Slip 1, p5.
(Always slip with yarn to WS and purlwise. All following directions will simply read 'sl 1.')
Next 7 (8) RS short rows Knit 2 stitches past previous row, turn.
Next 7 (8) WS rows Sl 1, purl to end.
Next RS row K24 (28).
Continue in stockinette to 3" from beginning (measured at outside edge), ending after a WS row.
Decrease row (RS) K1, ssk (or skp), knit to end.
Continue in stockinette to 6" from beginning (measured at outside edge), ending after a WS row.
Repeat decrease row--22 (26) stitches.
Continue in stockinette to 8 (10)” from beginning (measured at outside edge), ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Bind off 2 stitches at beginning of next RS row, knit to end—20 (24) stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.
Decrease row (RS) K1, ssk (or skp), knit to end.
Purl 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 17 (20) stitches remain.
Continue in stockinette until armhole opening measures 5", ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 3 (4) RS rows—11 (12) stitches remain.
End with a knit row, then put remaining stitches onto a holder or spare needle (for collar).

BACK
SHORT-ROW, SHAPED HEM

With larger needles and heavier yarn, long tail cast on 56 (62) stitches.
Purl 41 (45), turn—15 (17) stitches left behind.
Next RS short row Sl 1, k25 (27), turn.
Next WS short row Sl 1, p29 (31), turn.
Next RS short row Sl 1, k33 (35), turn.
Next WS short row Sl 1, p36 (38), turn.
Next RS short row Sl 1, k39 (41), turn.
Next 6 (8) short rows Maintaining stockinette (beginning with a purl row and ending with a knit row), sl 1, work to 2 stitches past previous row.
(You will end with only 2 stitches remaining 'unworked' at each edge.)
Next WS short row Sl 1, p53 (59).
Next RS row K56 (62)
Continue in stockinette to 3" from beginning (measured at outside edge), ending after a WS row.
Decrease row (RS) K1, ssk (or skp), knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Continue in stockinette to 6" from beginning (measured at outside edge), ending after a WS row.
Repeat decrease row—52 (58) stitches.
Continue in stockinette until pieces measures same length as LEFT FRONT to armhole, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Bind off 2 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows—48 (54) stitches.
Decrease row (RS) K1, ssk (or skp), knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 42 (46) stitches remain.
Continue in stockinette until armhole opening measures same length as LEFT FRONT, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 (8) rows.
Put remaining 30 stitches onto holder or spare needle (for collar).

RIGHT FRONT
SHORT-ROW, SHAPED HEM

With larger needles and heavier yarn, long-tail cast on 24 (28) stitches.
Next WS short row P6, turn.
Next RS row Slip 1, k5.
Next 7 (8) WS short rows Purl 2 stitches past previous row, turn.
Next 7 (8) RS rows Sl 1, knit to end.
Next WS row P24 (28).
Continue in stockinette to 3" from beginning (measured at outside edge), ending after a WS row.
Decrease row (RS) Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Continue in stockinette to 6" from beginning (measuring at outside edge), ending after a WS row.
Repeat decrease row—22 (26) stitches.
Continue in stockinette until pieces measures same length as LEFT FRONT to armhole, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Bind off 2 stitches at beginning of next WS row, purl to end.
Decrease row (RS) Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 17 (20) stitches remain.
Continue in stockinette until armhole opening measures same length as LEFT FRONT, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 3 (4) WS rows—11 (12) stitches remain.

COLLAR

Beginning with RS facing and RIGHT FRONT, work as follows.

  • Knit over stitches of RIGHT FRONT to last stitch.
  • Slip last stitch of RIGHT FRONT knitwise, knit first stitch of BACK, pass slip stitch over.
  • Knit over remaining stitches of BACK to last stitch.
  • Slip last stitch of BACK knitwise, knit first stitch of LEFT FRONT, pass slip stitch over.
  • Knit over remaining stitches of LEFT FRONT.

--40 (42) stitches remain for neck.
Work 7 (9) rows in stockinette, then bind off.

CENTER PIECE

With smaller needles and sock yarn, long-tail cast on 24 stitches.
(Leave an extra long tail for seaming.)
Work in stockinette to the following number of rows.

  • Count the number of rows in the length of the RIGHT or LEFT FRONT.
  • Divide by 2, then multiple by 3.
  • This is the number of rows you will work in the sock yarn.
  • End after working a RS row.
  • Bind off on a WS row, leaving a long tail for seaming.

FINISHING

Sew side and shoulder seams.
Sew CENTER PIECE to RIGHT and LEFT FRONT edges as follows.

  • Use sock yarn tails.
  • Use mattress stitch.
  • Take one full stitch of sock yarn into seam allowance, BUT take only ½ stitch of heavier yarn into seam allowance.
  • Sew 3 rows of sock yarn against 2 rows of heavier yarn.

 

Kinky-Boot Stocking
Designed by Sally

I don’t know where the idea for this stocking came from. Perhaps from the movie of the same name . . . but I don’t think so. Perhaps from the tabbed spats of Mother Daughter Knits . . . but I don’t think so. Probably it was from the dream of a perfect stocking for a shoe-lover? I confess to being one. (The shoe could come from your closet, but you could also go to a charity outlet.)


Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

All measurements are approximate and after shrinking.
Height (above heel of shoe) 14 (8)” (35.5 [20]cm)
Circumference (at top) 14” (35.5cm)

Materials

160 yd (146m) / 3 skeins Prism Loopy (74% rayon, 26% wool, each approximately 2oz [55g] and 58 yd [53m]), in color Moss (green/brown) or Mozambique (red/black), CYCA weight 5/bulky
Stitch marker
1 yd (1m) coordinating Ribbon
One set of 5 dpn’s, size 10 (6mm)
One size H (5mm) crochet hook
One woman’s size 6-8 high-heeled shoe or short boot (with some back support at heel)

Gauge

13 stitches and 18 rows = 4” (10cm), in stockinette and before shrinking
16 stitches and 22 rows = 4” (10cm), after shrinking
Gauge does not matter

Pattern Notes

  1. This pattern is dependent upon the yarn—a wool (that will shrink) combined with a curly yarn (that will not shrink). The yarn recommended is of this construction.

  2. The stocking is knit from the toe up. (This allows you to stop when you run out of yarn. If you choose to only buy 2 skeins of Loopy, your stocking will be approximately 6” shorter in the boot—as shown in the alternate photo.)

Stocking

Toe
Long-tail cast on 8 stitches. Slip 2 stitches onto each of 4 dpn’s. Place marker to denote beginning of rnds.
Next rnd (K1, kf&b) on each needle—3 stitches on each needle.
Increase rnd Over needles 1 and 3, k1, M1, knit to end; over needles 2 and 4, knit to last stitch, M1, k1.
Repeat increase rnd 2 times more—6 sts on each needle.
Knit 1 rnd even.
Repeat increase rnd.
Repeat the last 2 rnds once more—8 stitches on each needle.

Foot
Knit 24 rnds, ending at marker.
Repeat increase rnd once—9 stitches on each needle.
Knit 2 rnds.
Repeat increase rnd once—10 stitches on each needle.
Knit 2 rnds.
Next rnd At beginning of needle 1, k1, M1; at end of needle 2, knit to last stitch, M1, k1; knit stitches of needles 3 and 4 —11 stitches on needles 1 and 2, 10 stitches on needles 3 and 4.
Knit stitches of needles 1 and 2.

Heel
Work stitches of needles 3 and 4 back and forth and as follows.
Row 1 (RS) K20. Turn.
Row 2 Wyif slip 1 purlwise, p18. Turn.

Over following rows, “wyif slip 1 purlwise” will be written as “sl 1.”
Row 3 Sl 1, k17. Turn.
Row 4 Sl 1, p16. Turn.
Row 5 Sl 1, k15. Turn.
Row 6 Sl 1, p14. Turn.
Row 7 Sl 1, k13—3 stitches left behind at each end. Turn

From this point until the end of row 13, you are making the hole for the shoe heel.
Row 8 Sl 1, p3, bind off the next 6 stitches, p2 more (3 stitches on right needle past bind-off). Turn.
Row 9 Sl 1, k2. Turn.
Row 10 Cast on 1, p3. Turn.

Use the knit cast-on method through this section and for the loops of the next section.
Row 11 Sl 1, k2. Turn.
Row 12 Cast on 1, p3. Turn.
Row 13 Sl 1, k2. Cut yarn.
Return to other side of heel, RS facing.
Row 9 K3. Turn.
Row 10 Sl 1, p2. Turn.
Row 11 Cast on 1, k3. Turn.
Row 12 Sl 1, p2. Turn.
Row 13 Cast on 1, k3. Turn.

Over the next row, you will close the hole for the shoe heel.
Row 14 Sl 1, p2. Turn. Cast on 4 stitches. Turn. P3. Turn.
Row 15 Sl 1, k10. Turn.
Row 16 Sl 1, p11. Turn.
Row 17 (19, 21, 23, 25) Sl 1, k12 (14, 16, 18, 20)—4 (3, 2, 1, 0) stitches left behind. Turn.
Row 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) Sl 1, p13 (15, 17, 19, 21) —4 (3, 2, 1, 0) stitches left behind. Turn.

Holes will form along short rows. These can be decorative, but if you wish to close them, use a crochet hook to pull up the threads that will close the holes.

Leg
Resume working in rnds.
Next rnd Onto needle 3, sl 1, k10; onto needle 4, k11—11 stitches on each of 4 dpn’s.
Next (decrease) rnd Over needles 1 and 3, k1, ssk; over needles 2 and 4, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1—10 stitches on each needle.

For loops that follow, you will cast onto the left needle and then bind off over the left needle also.
If not already in place, insert a marker at the beginning of needle 1.

Make loops, next rnd K2, *cast on 1 stitch, bind off previous stitch over stitch just cast on, repeat from * 3 times more, slip remaining stitch onto right needle, knit to last 3 stitches of rnd, make loop in next stitch as above, knit last 2 stitches.
Continue to knit in rnds, making loops every 8th rnd.
AT THE SAME TIME, shape the leg as follows.
Increase in 20th, 40th, and 60th rnds Over needles 1 and 3, knit to last stitch, M1, k1; over needles 2 and 4, k1, M1, knit to end.

After 60th rnd, 13 stitches on each needle.

After 9 loops are formed, knit 2 rnds, then bind off.

You may, of course, stop when you run out of yarn, no matter the number of loops formed.

Finishing

Sew all tails to stockinette side, then turn stocking inside out. Reverse stockinette (RSS) is RS of stocking.

Hanger

Double 2 yds (1.8m) of yarn. Make a slip knot at the fold. Put the slip knot onto the crochet hook. Crochet a chain of doubled yarn to desired length for hanger. Pull remaining yarn through the last chain.

Sew hanger securely to top edge of stocking at center back.

Shrinking

Wash the stocking in hot water and cold rinse. Do not dry completely.
While damp, put the shoe into the stocking, and stretch the stocking to fit over the heel. Let the stocking dry completely with the shoe inside.

Insert Ribbon

Pull the knit loops to the RSS side. Beginning at the bottom, lace the ribbon through the loops. Finish with a bow at the top.

 


Not-So-Architectural Pillow
Designed by Sally

I made this pillow in the same technique as the Architectural Shawl (in Warm Knits, Cool Gifts) but realized after it was felted that the technique no longer showed. So the pattern has been simplified here—to simple garter stitch stripes.

I must confess that I chose the colors of this pillow to work with my own home’s décor. The yarn I used comes in wonderful colors, so if you find others that work better in your space, please use them. (I have been told that 80% of knitters work a pattern in the color in which it is shown, and this might not work for you? But please do not let my color choice deter you from making this piece.)


Skill Level

Easy

Size

14-16” (37.5-40cm) square (after felting)
See not at end of Materials, plus different options in Finishing, to understand size.

Materials

380 yd (340m) / 2 skeins Malabrigo worsted (100% merino wool, each approximately 216 yd [195m] and 3½oz [100g]), in color Pearl Ten #69 (main color, MC), CYCA weight 4/medium
110 yd (100m) / 1 skein Malabrigo worsted, in color Applewood #18 (contrast color 1, CC1)
110 yd (100m) / 1 skein Malabrigo worsted, in color Burgundy #41 (contrast color 2, CC2)
one pair size 8 (5mm) needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
one size G-6 (4mm) crochet hook
10 buttons, ¾”(2cm)
one pillow form, 14 or16" (35 or 40cm) square
The size pillow form you use will depend upon how much you shrink your pieces.

Gauge
14 stitches and 28 rows = 4” (10cm), in garter stitch, before felting

Slip stitch garter
All rows Wyif, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit to end.

Pillow

First Piece
With MC, cast on 85 stitches.
*Work slip-stitch garter to 7 ridges. End after working a WS row.

Next row, make buttonhole Knit to last 4 stitches, yo, k2tog, k2.
Next row Working WS row as usual, knit yo to not twist it.
Continue slip-stitch garter to 14 ridges. End after working a WS row.*
Change to CC1, and work from * to *.
Change to MC, and work from * to *.
Change to CC1, and work from * to *.
Change to MC, and work from * to *.
Bind off.

Second Side
Work as First Piece but with CC2 (instead of CC1).

Finishing

Turn First Piece so it is perpendicular to Second Piece.
Sew cast-on edge of First Piece to 20” of side edge of Second Piece so that 4” (10cm) of buttonhole end from First Piece remains un-sewn.
Turn 90 degrees, and sew cast-on edge of Second Piece to 20” of side edge of First Piece so that 4” (10cm) of buttonhole end of Second Piece remains un-sewn.

Felting
You have choices as to how much you want to shrink this piece. Option one will make a larger pillow than Option two.

Option one
Wash in cold water with wool-wash solution.
While wet, stretch buttonholes with your fingers, or you might lose them.
Dry in hot dryer, with towels, until pillow shrinks down to 16” (40.5cm).
It will shrink gradually, but you do want to keep checking often.
Finish drying flat.

Option two
Wash in hot water, then rinse in cold water.
While wet, stretch buttonholes with your fingers, or you might lose them.
Dry in hot dryer until pillow shrinks down to 14” (35cm).
Finish drying flat.

Finishing, cont’d

Insert the pillow form.
Fold buttonhole edges over, and sew 5 buttons to each side to match placement of buttonholes.
You want to fold over far enough that the pillow form is not visible.
Close with buttons.

 


Adult Ear Flap Hat
Designed by Caddy

This hat came long after the original. Caddy appeared wearing it one day, and I insisted that she offer the pattern. (Actually, I first insisted that she make me one. When that was not forthcoming, I asked for the pattern.) Unfortunately, she didn’t keep any notes (She had just had a baby!), so I am doing my best to ‘read’ the hat and write its pattern.

What we do know is that she combined 2 yarns—the Maxi Tosca plus leftovers of Sublime Kid Mohair (from the Christmas Morning Sweater). We don’t know how much of each she used, but I can tell from the hat that she didn’t use more than one ball of the Maxi Tosca.

The photos show her wearing her hat while skiing with her brother . . . and, yes, both babies are attached to their parents. Please understand that both my children are highly proficient skiers. My son has his instructor’s, even though my daughter is a better skier. I did this with my kids, and my father did this with me. We come from a long line of ski instructors and ski safety experts. So we kept to the bunny hill and moved very slowly. Everyone had a great time, and a ski patroller (who is in charge of safety on the hill) came over to admire them and take our picture!

Skill Level

Easy

Size

adult
Finished circumference (slightly stretched) 21” (53cm)
Finished height (slightly stretched) 8” (15cm)

Materials

1 ball Lang Maxi Tosca (55% wool, 45% acrylic, each approximately 1 3/4oz [50g] and 102yd [92m]), in a color that we cannot find because we think it might have been discontinued when we bought it, CYCA 4 (medium)
1 ball Sublime Kid Mohair (60% kid mohair, 35% nylon, 5% extra fine merino, each approximately 7/8oz [25g] and 122yd [112m]), in color 0069 (mouse), CYCA weight 4 (medium)

We don’t know how much of each she used, but she did NOT use more than a ball of either—and probably less.

one set of 5 size 11 (8mm) double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
stitch marker

The two yarns combined make the gauge a CYCA 6 (super bulky). You could use just one super bulky.

Gauge

11 stitches and 16 rows (stretched) = 4” (10cm) over stitch pattern

Hat

Long-tail cast on 60 stitches.
Distribute stitches evenly over 4 dpn’s—15 stitches on each needle.
Join to work in the round, placing marker at beginning of rnd.
Purl 4 rnds, then knit 4 rnds.
Repeat the last 8 rnds 3 times more.
Next (decrease) rnd Over each needle, knit to last 2 stitches then k2tog—14 stitches on each needle.
Repeat decrease rnd 12 times more—2 stitches on each needle. Cut yarn.
Thread tapestry needle through remaining stitches, remove needles, and pull taught.

Finishing

Ear Flaps
With RS facing, begin 5 stitches past center back of hat.
Pick up and knit 14 stitches.
*Knit 3 rows.
Next (decrease) row K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
*Knit 1 row.
Repeat decrease row.
Repeat from * until 4 stitches remain.
Knit 2 rows, then bind off.
Return to cast-on row of hat, RS facing, and begin 24 stitches (approximately 8” [20cm]) to right of previous flap.
Pick up and knit 14 stitches.

After you pick up and knit 14 stitches, you will have a center back space (between the flaps) of 10 stitches.

Work as from * to end as for first ear flap.

Tassels
Cut three lengths of yarn, 20” (50cm) long.
Fold each in half, then pull each fold through tip of ear flap.
Draw remaining yarn of each through fold, to secure.
Braid doubled pieces to desired length, and finish with a knot: trim to suit.

 



One, Two, or Three-yarn Asymmetrical Vest

This garment is like the Asymmetrical Vest in The Knit Stitch except that it is done on a smaller gauge and with a stitch pattern other than garter stitch. In addition, I am suggesting you may use more than one yarn: please read the notes. (The sample shown is done in two yarns.)

Because the stitch pattern works to a dense fabric, look for yarns that normally get a 16-18 stitch gauge over 4” (10cm).


Sizes

S (M, L, 1X, 2X)
Finished bust
37 (41, 45, 49, 53)” (94 [104, 114.5, 124.5, 134.5]cm)
Finished length of back 24” (61cm)
Finished length of shortest front 20” (51cm)
Finished length of second front 22” (56cm)

Materials

Approximately 650 (720, 800, 870, 930) yd in one yarn
OR
Approximately 325 (360, 400, 435, 465) yd (297 [329, 365, 397, 424]m) in each of two yarns
OR
Approximately 215 (240, 265, 290, 310) yd (196 [219, 242, 265, 283]m) in each of three yarns

One crochet hook, size H-8 (5mm)
One pair size 10 (6mm) needles
Two stitch markers
3 Buttons ¾ - 1" (19 – 25mm)

Gauge

14½ - 15 stitches and 28 rows = 4” over stitch pattern

Stitch Pattern

Slip all stitches wyif and purlwise: directions will be written ‘wyif sl 1.’

Row 1 (RS) K1, *wyif sl 1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Rows 2 and 4 Purl.
Row 3 K1, *k1, wyif sl1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

If you are using 1 yarn, work all rows in that yarn.
If you are using 2 yarns, *work 2 rows in A, then 2 rows in B; repeat from *
If you are using 3 yarns, *work 1 row in A, 1 row in B, 1 row in C; repeat from *.
 

Notes

  1. If you do not know how to do the crochet cast on, you may use the knitted or cable cast on. But do not use the long-tail.

  2. This garment is knit in one piece and lengthwise.

  3. Each front is a different length than the back.
  4. Because there is no neck shaping, and the sides are vented, the piece takes a slight A-line shape.

  5. If the stitch pattern does not say 'wyif,' then just slip without moving the yarn.

  6. When you finish knitting, you may decide that you like the "wrong side" better. But for pattern-writing, it’s best to denote a RS—regardless of how you may end up wearing it. 

Right Front

Front neck
With crochet method (see note 1 above), cast on 81 stitches.
    Shorten or lengthen for finished length here by casting on fewer or more than 81 stitches. Keep a record of your choice.
Next row (RS)
Replace k1 at beginning of row with sl1, continue with row 1.
Next row (WS) Sl 1, purl to end.
    The slip stitch at the beginning of every row gives the piece a nice edge.
Continue in stitch pattern, with slip stitch at beginnings of all rows, for 4 more rows--6 rows from beginning.
Next row, make buttonholes
Work row 3 to 19 stitches on right needle, *yo, k2tog, work 8; repeat from * twice (3 buttonholes made), work to end.
    After each k2tog, restart stitch pattern with k1.
Continue in stitch pattern, with slip stitch at beginning of all rows, to 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 5½)” (11.5 [12.5, 12.5, 14, 14]cm) from beginning. End after working a WS row.

Shoulder shaping
    Discontinue slip stitch at the beginning of RS rows (because this part of the garment will go into a seam). Maintain slip stitch at the             beginning of WS rows for the rest of the piece.
*Decrease row (RS)
K1, ssk, work to end in stitch pattern as established.
Work 3 rows even.
Repeat from * 5 times more—75 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Armhole shaping
Next RS row
Bind off 19 stitches, work stitch pattern as established to end—56 stitches.
    The number of stitches remaining will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
*Work 1 WS row.
Decrease row (RS) Sl1, ssk, work stitch pattern as established to end.
Repeat from * 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) times more—50 (49, 47, 46, 44) stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
Place marker at end of next WS row to denote end of armhole shaping.

Armhole shaping to side vent 
Continue with slip stitch at beginning of all rows and with stitch pattern as established until piece measures 10 (11½, 12½, 14, 15)” (25.5 [29, 32, 35.5, 38]cm). End after working a WS row.
Next row (RS) Work 32 (31, 29, 28, 26) stitches, bind off remaining 18 stitches. Break yarn.
    If you shortened or lengthened, your number of stitches will be different. But you will still bind off the last 18 stitches.

Back

Side vent to armhole shaping
Next row (WS)
Insert crochet hook through first stitch on left needle and with crochet method cast on 26 stitches—58 (57, 55, 54, 52) stitches.
    If you shortened or lengthened, your number of stitches will be different. But you will still cast on 26 stitches.
Beginning with a WS row, work slip stitch at beginning of all rows and stitch pattern as established until piece measures same distance from side vent to end of armhole shaping as marked on Right Front. (Do not remove this marker.) End after working a WS row.

Armhole shaping
Increase row (RS)
Sl1, increase 1, work stitch pattern as established to end.
Work 1 WS row.
Repeat from * 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) times more—64 stitches. End after working a WS row.
    The number of stitches on your needle will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
Next row (RS)
With crochet method, cast on 19 stitches—83 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Shoulder shaping
Beginning with a RS row, but without working slip stitch at beginning of RS rows, work 2 rows even and in stitch pattern as established.
    You may have to look back, beyond the cast-on, to determine how to establish your stitch pattern.
Increase row (RS)
K1, increase 1, work stitch pattern as established to end.
Work 3 rows even.
Repeat from * 4 times more—88 stitches.
Repeat increase row plus 1 WS row--89 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
Place marker at end of final WS row.

Back neck
*Decrease row (RS)
Sl1, ssk, work stitch pattern as established to end.
Work 1 WS row.
Repeat from * twice more—86 stitches.
    The number of stitches remaining will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
Work even, with slip stitch at beginning of all rows, until piece measures 6½” (16.5cm) from marker. Remove marker.
*Increase row (RS) Sl1, increase 1, work stitch pattern as established to end.
Work 1 WS row.
Repeat from * twice more—89 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Shoulder shaping
*Decrease row (RS)
K1, ssk, work to end.
Without working slip stitch at beginning of RS rows, work 3 rows even.
Repeat from * 5 times more—83 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Armhole shaping
Next RS row
Bind off 19 stitches, work to end—64 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
*Work 1 WS row.
Decrease row (RS) Sl1, ssk, work to end.
Repeat from * 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) times more—58 (57, 55, 54, 52) stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Armhole shaping to side vent
Continue with slip stitch at beginning of all rows and with stitch pattern as established until piece measures same distance as Right Front from end of armhole shaping to side vent. End after working a WS row.
Next row (RS) Work 32 (31, 29, 28, 26) stitches, bind off remaining 26 stitches. Break yarn.
    If you shortened or lengthened, your number of stitches will be different. But you will still bind off the last 26 stitches.

Left Front

Side vent to armhole shaping
Next row (WS)
Insert crochet hook through first stitch on left needle and with crochet method cast on 10 stitches—42 (41, 39, 38, 36) stitches.
    If you shortened or lengthened, your number of stitches will be different. But you will still cast on 10 stitches.
Beginning with a WS row, work slip stitch at beginning of all rows and stitch pattern as established until piece measures same distance from side vent to end of armhole shaping as marked on Right Front. Remove marker. End after working a WS row.

Shape armhole
Increase row (RS)
Sl1, increase 1, work to end.
Work 1 WS row.
Repeat from * 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) times more—48 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.
Next row (RS)
With crochet method, cast on 19 stitches—67 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Shape shoulder
Beginning with a RS row, but without working slip stitch at beginning of RS rows, work 2 rows even and in stitch pattern as established.
    You may have to look back, beyond the cast-on, to determine how to establish your stitch pattern.
*Increase row (RS)
K1, increase in next stitch, work to end.
Work 3 rows even.
Repeat from * 4 times more—72 stitches.
Repeat increase row plus 1 WS row--73 stitches.
    The number of stitches will be different if you shortened or lengthened.

Front Neck
Next row (RS) Replace k1 at beginning of row with sl1, continue with stitch pattern as established.
Next row (WS) Sl 1, purl to end.
Work even, with slip stitch at beginning of all rows, until piece measures 10 (11½, 12½, 14, 15)” (25.5 [29, 32, 35.5, 38]cm) from side vent. End after working a WS row.
Next row Bind off.

Finishing

Determine which side of fabric you prefer as the 'right side.'
    If you turn it to the ‘wrong side,’ the buttonholes will end up on the left instead of the right.
Sew shoulder seams.
Sew buttons to match placement of buttonholes.

Block well, which I like to do by washing in EUCALAN, lay flat to dry, pinning any edges that curl.


From-the-Vault Sweater

I first made this sweater as my own version of the first pattern I published in a major knitting magazine (in Vogue Knitting, fall/winter ’92-93) where it was shown in pink (not my colour, which didn’t matter because you don’t get the sweater back). I had a friend (Donna Hancock, of Wellington Fibres) dye some yarn bright orange for me. But other than colour, there were further differences between my version and the VK one: my yarn was heaver, and I put lace into the sleeves.

So I wore my orange sweater for a while . . . until my skin tones or styles or something changed. It needed a new life as a new color, so I overdyed it with red + brown + orange. Voila! a gorgeous brick red! (The reason the final result is so wonderfully saturated with color is that when one dyes, one usually uses more colour powder than a commercial dyer could ever afford to. Very rich!)

So I wore my red sweater for a while . . . but not as often as I should have. While the color is wonderful, there was something wrong with the style. Because I was cold, I was wearing it at a retreat in California (where I had taken it for my Emergency Measures class—to show how something could be rescued with over-dyeing), when I looked at—and wondered about—those rather large and loose sleeves. I thought about a favourite jacket—whose wonderful large and loose sleeves were only ¾ length—and I determined to do something similar with the sleeves of this red sweater. I’d cut off about 6” and bring them into a tight cuff—to a kind of a leg-o-mutton look. Everyone loved it and wanted to know how to get the pattern. But there were so many differences between what I was now wearing and the original—which was out-of-print anyway—that the pattern wasn’t available. So I offer this as my first-ever, website freebie. And doesn’t that seem appropriate anyway? To introduce this space by re-interpreting my first-ever published pattern?



From-the-Vault Sweater
Skill Level

Intermediate

Note This garment was listed as very easy in VK, but it’s hard to see how that is possible with a lace pattern? In any case, the lace on the body is not challenging because the piece is just a rectangle: but the lace on the sleeves—through shaping—does challenge a bit. If you don’t wish to take on this challenge, just knit the sleeves in stockinette.


Sizes

S (M, L 1X, 2X)
Finished bust 45½ (50½, 55½, 60½, 65½)” / 115.5 (128, 140.5, 154, 166)cm
Finished length 23-4” / 58-60.5cm
Finished sleeve length 26 (26½, 27½, 28, 29½)” / 66 (67, 70, 71, 75)cm

Notes

  1. The sizes are generous because this is an over-sized, drop-shoulder.

  2. The garment looks like it has an A-line shape, but this is not built into it: it is accomplished by the garter stitch at the hem, which makes the hem about 4” wider than the bust. Cute!

  3. The length is for someone 5’4” (me!). If you wish to change this, you are told where to do so in the pattern.

  4. The sleeve length as offered is before blousing: the bloused sleeves will actually sit 1½” shorter. They should fall to the slim part of your arm below the elbow, but the cuffs are tight enough to be pushed up the arm and hold.

  5. As you finish the cuff, wrap it around your arm where you want the sleeve to land, and make sure it’s the appropriate size. If not, then begin the cuff again with adjustments to the number of stitches.

Materials

1215 (1350, 1485, 1620, 1755) yds / 1095 (1215, 1340, 1460, 1580)m worsted weight yarn [CYCA weight 4]
one pair size 5mm / US 8 needles
one circular size 4mm / US 6 needle, 20” long

Gauge

16 stitches and 22 rows = 4” (10cm) over Front / Back Lace pattern.

Stitch Patterns

Front / Back Lace
(over a multiple of 10 stitches + 3)

       I      10-st repeat       I

Sleeves Lace
(over a multiple of 10 stitches +3)

                                       I        10-st repeat     I

Lace legend

knit on RS, purl on WS

purl on RS, knit on WS

k2tog (knit-2-together)

skp (slip1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slip stitch over)

yo (yarn over)

sk2p (slip 1 knitwise, knit-2-together, pass slip stitch over)

Front and Back

(Make 2 identical pieces)

Edging

With larger needles, cast on 93 (103, 113, 123, 133) stitches.
I like the long-tail cast-on for this.
Knit 5 rows.

Body

Chart Row 1 (RS) K1 (as shown at right edge of chart), work 10-stitch repeat to last 2 stitches, k2 (as shown at left edge of chart).

Continue to work from chart as established—working WS rows from left to right and RS rows from right to left, with 1 stockinette stitch at each edge, with 8-row lace pattern worked 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) times across each row—until piece measures approximately 20” / 50.5cm from beginning. End after working Row 8.

If your row gauge matches mine, this will be 13 8-row repeats of the lace pattern.
SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN HERE by working fewer or more 8-row repeats.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

Right Sleeve

Edging

With smaller needles, cast on 38 (38, 42, 42, 46) stitches. I like the cable cast-on for this.

Work 2X2 rib—beginning and ending all RS rows with k2 and all WS rows with p2—until cuff measures 2” / 5cm from beginning. End after working a RS row.

Next (increase) row Purl across, increasing in each third (third, second and third, second and third, third) stitch, until you know you will end with 50 (50, 60, 60, 60) stitches.

Body

Sizes S (M), Chart Row 1 (RS) K5, work 10-stitch repeat 4 times, k5.
Sizes L (1Xm 2X), Chart Row 1 (RS) Work to10-stitch repeat 6 times.
All sizes Continue to work from chart as established for 3 more rows.

Next (increase) row (RS) K1, increase one in next stitch, work from chart as established to last 2 stitches, increase 1 in next stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows 12 times more—76 (76, 86, 86, 86) stitches.

Maintain lace pattern through increases: work additional stitches in stockinette until there are enough stitches for all the yo’s and decreases of the next motif.

Work even until piece measures 14½ (14, 13½, 13, 13)” / 36.5 (35.5, 34, 33, 335)cm. End after working a WS row.

SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN HERE.

Saddle

Bind off 25 (25, 30, 30, 30) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows—26 stitches.

Next row (RS) K3, work 10-stitch repeat twice, k3.

Continue to work as established until saddle measures 6½ (7½, 8¾, 10, 11½)” / 16.5 (19, 22, 25, 29)cm. End after working a WS row.

Front neck

Work to 13 stitches on right needle. Turn, leaving 13 stitches behind (for back neck).

Working in stockinette, bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next WS row, then 3 stitches at the beginning of the next WS row, then 2 stitches at the beginning of the next WS row, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 WS rows. At the beginning of the next WS row, bind off the remaining 3 stitches.

Back neck

Return to the remaining 13 stitches, RS facing.

Continuing in lace pattern as established, work until back neck measures 5” / 12.5cm. Put stitches on holder.

Left Sleeve

Work as Right Sleeve to front neck.

Front neck

Work to 13 stitches on right needle. Continuing in stockinette, bind off the next 4 stitches—8 stitches remain for front neck. Work 1 WS row over these 8 stitches. Turn, leaving13 stitches behind (for back neck).

Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next RS row, then 2 stitches at the beginning of the next RS row, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 RS rows. At the beginning of the next RS row, bind off the remaining 3 stitches.

Back neck

Return to the remaining 13 stitches, WS facing.

Continuing in lace pattern as established, work until back neck measures 5” / 12.5cm. Put stitches on holder.

Finishing

Assembly

Match the corner of the Back to the corner of the Right Sleeve as noted by *’s on schematics.

Sew the bind-off edge of the Sleeve down the side of the Back, sewing 5 stitches for every 7 rows.

Sew the saddle of the Sleeve along the top of the Back, sewing 5 stitches for every 7 rows. End at center Back (so add or delete rows of final 13 stitches as needed).

Sew the Left Sleeve to the Back in the same manner.

Graft the Back neck pieces together at center back. (If you do not like your grafting line, pull taut—for a seam with no seam allowance.)

Sew the Right and Left Sleeves to the Fronts in the same manner as for the Back. The front saddle pieces will each end approximately 3” / 7.5cm from center front, leaving 6” / 15cm of the Front bind-off edge for the neck edging to be picked up against.

Sew remaining sides of Fronts and Back together at sides.

Sew Sleeve seams to underarms.

Neck edging

With smaller needle, begin at center back to pick up and knit as follows: 3 stitches for every 4 rows along back neck, 1 stitch for every bind-off stitch and 1 stitch for every 2-row step between bind-off stitches around front neck shaping, 1 stitch for every bind-off stitch along 6” / 15cm of front neck—approximately 88 stitches.

Increase or decrease as needed in next row to a multiple of 4 and something close to this number.

Work 2X2 rib over these stitches, and in rounds, to 2” / 5cm. Bind off.


Vine lace cardigan

This garment was my contribution to A Gathering of Lace, by Meg Swanson and published by XRX. When first asked to contribute to a book on lace, I declined. I didn’t think had anything to offer. But then I was asked again, and I said I would contribute if I could offer a garment with our simplest lace pattern (fagotting, seen on the sleeves) alternated with a non-lace texture. They agreed.

I found a colour I loved in a yarn I loved . . . long since discontinued (actually, discontinued before the book even came out!)—a ropey blend of silk, rayon, and acrylic (Jaegar Java, if you can find it). The rope reminded me of a vine, so I designed the ‘vine + leaf + buds’ stitch pattern that spoke to this. And then, because I didn’t want to add a crocheted edging but did want a lacy edging, I re-developed a scallop edge found in one of the Harmony Guides to Knit Stitches.

I think this sweater is probably the prettiest thing I have ever made. And I have seen lovely versions of it, often knit in the Louet euroflax linen. That yarn works to the gauge, plus it both holds the stitch pattern and drapes beautifully.




Vest-of-Many-Stitches

This vest is probably the oldest piece of knitting I still wear. I made it on a bus trip, chaperoning my now-32-yr-old son’s grade 8 graduation trip to Quebec City. Its inception was a thought: what if I did in textures—all kinds of stitch patterns—what  Kaffe Fasset did with color—introduce many of them, randomly. My tattered drawing led to this vest, then to a class on the subject (which I haven’t taught for 15 years), then to an article on the subject (in Threads, #43, Oct/Nov 1992, reprinted in their book Colorful Sweaters—or something like that), then to the publication of this pattern (in Knitters’, Fall 1997, reprinted in their book Arans and Celtics.)

I still wear it, and I still love it! The version shown in this photo is from a long-discontinued yarn (a cotton and wool blend), but any DK yarn with a hard twist will do a good job.

Cross-Over-Rib Top

 

This garment’s pattern is my first offering to a website offering a range of individual patterns for sale (some new—as this is—and some vintage): http://www.patternfish.com/patterns/843.

 

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